That’s right! Racer on Rails crew have been big fans of the Avants community for a while now and providing discounts but in 2022, we made it officially OFFICIAL!
What’s the deal?
Active Avants Members get 15% discount off all labor
$500 max discount for any single job
$5,000 max discount for a rolling 12-month period
That’s it! For reals!
What is Avants?
Do you like cars and car cultures? As in, you really like cars and car culture? You like hanging out, chatting and meeting up with other like-minded car nuts? Do you like those meetups to be legit and super cool events like dyno-runs, drives, car clinics, off-roading, photoshoots, track days, etc?
If you do, Avants is THE place to be, especially if you live in the Pacific Northwest – there’s a Seattle and Portland chapter.
With events going on almost literally every weekend, there’s no shortage of fun times with the Avants Community.
I’m an Avants Member! What kind of work can you all do for me?
Racer on Rails works on everything starting from high-performance street cars and up to fully dedicated track and race cars.
Normal daily drivers are awesome but there are many other places to give them some love. Below are some of the things that Racer on Rails can help out with:
Pre-purchase inspection of a track or race car
Pre-track day/race weekend inspection and nut/bolt
Alignments and full competition setups
Complete fabrication and chassis prep for roll bars and competition cages
General maintenance and repairs for track and race cars
Install of high performance power bolt-ons and suspension upgrades
Complete brake service and upgrades
Maintenance and support of factory based race cars
Full arrive and drive support with your own car or one of our race cars
Something else? Get in touch – if we can help, we’re on it and if not, we’ll help find the right path for you!
Before we get into the actual on-track action and the race, let’s talk about the car we drove for the 12 hours of Imola.
BMW M235i Racing by Sorg Rennsport
The story goes that a prominent leader in BMW Motorsport was at the 24 Hours of The Nürburgring several years ago and noticed that in the sub-GT4 categories, there were several BMW’s competing but they were old (E30’s and E36’s) and took a ton of work to get them race ready and maintained, let alone competitive.
With Mazda having a full factory developed and globally homogulated Global MX-5 Cup Car, BMW decided to build their own solution. Since its launch in 2014, the BMW M235i Racing has seen steady uptake in the marketplace, with BMW Cup Racing series all over Europe, in endurance races like the Creventic 24 Hour Series, VLN and in professional touring classes all over the world, like the TC classes in Pirelli World Challenge. As an entry-level professional race car, its hard to beat the value despite the sticker price and driving experience, as we’ll cover below.
The VLN BMW M235i Racing Cup Series Photo Credit: VLN
We were originally supposed to drive this car below but in the prior 24 Hour of Nurburgring race, it was wrecked a couple times and was down for repairs. So Sorg prepared and brought out the “Orange Juice car” as my son named.
The car we were originally going to drive but was damaged at the Green Hell. Photo credit: Petr Frýba
The “Orange Juice Car” Photo credit: Petr Frýba
The basics
DIMENSIONS
Length: 4,454mm
Max. width: 1,862mm (without mirrors)
Height: 1,380mm
Wheel base: 2,690mm
Max. track width: 1,608mm
ENGINE / TRANSMISSION
Straight six-cylinder petrol engine
BMW M Performance TwinPower Turbo
Capacity: 2,979ccm
Output: 245kW (333bhp)
Torque: 450Nm
Racing exhaust with racing catalytic converters
Steering wheel with shift paddles and lights on the steering wheel (awesome!!)
BMW M Performance limited-slip differential
TANK Motorsport safety tank
SUSPENSION / STEERING
KW dampers
H&R suspension springs
Front: H&R anti-roll bar (2-way)
Rear: H&R anti-roll bar
BRAKES
Front: High-performance motorsport braking system –
Performance Friction (PFC); 4-pot fixed calliper
Rear: BMW M Performance 2-pot braking system
ABS / DSC / ASC
BMW Motorsport specific racing application
TYRES / WHEELS
18×10 inch alloy rims
265/60/18 tires – we ran Hankook full racing slicks though we’ve seen this car run on Pirelli’s, Dunlops and Michelin’s across the globe
SAFETY COMPONENTS
Cage with DMSB certificate and FIA approval
6-point racing harness from Schroth
Racing seat RECARO Pro Racer SPG (we had an OMP HTC-R carbon seat)
Exterior
The car is built a ‘body in white’ to make it super easy for a great wrap job. It is the 235i body with the body panels from the M2, which presumably provide a variety of aero benefits. Sorg has it outfitted with the optional rear wing, which is adjustable to aid in rear down-force.
Seth Thomas getting acquainted with the car. You can see the body in white and the full body wrap.
Bottom line, it looks awesome in just about every livery I’ve seen. A bit boxy compared to most sports car but expected for a BMW. The aero bits make it look aggressive and with the incredibly meaty 265-wide slicks, it looks beefy from every angle. You’ll notice that in most pictures, we ran with the windows up. It comes with the power windows still and fully functional. It wasn’t until the cockpit got really hot, that we’d crack a window to circulate air and feed cooler air into the helmet blower.
This slideshow requires JavaScript.
Interior
This car is the standard for every production-based race car, even a club race car. Period. The interior was clean and tidy with the factory dash just about fully intact. The steering wheel had shift lights, programmed to keep us within the meaty part of the power band and the small LCD screen that read out the amount of fuel we’ve used since the last refill/reset, lap times, water and oil temperatures.
Straight factory look and yes, my eye line is only a couple inches higher than this…
The shifters were in perfect position to shift up and down without readjusting your hands. The OMP HTC-R carbon fiber seat was on sliders, to accommodate several driver heights, of which for us ranged from 5’6″ for me to just over 6′ for Seth Thomas. I normally don’t love sliders but these were solid and provided all of the range we needed.
Much of the interior is trimmed with carbon fiber goodness, which looks great and keeps everything looking clean and professional.
The car still comes with a racing oriented but still operating Driving Stability Control (DSC) of which we turned completely off. I personally didn’t drive with it on on, so I can’t speak directly to the differences but having it fully off was great and I felt like I could easily manage the amount of corner-exit sliding with throttle and steering input.
Sorg outfitted the car with Motorola digital radio system, which was a bit random in its performance throughout the weekend. Imola is a big track, with lots of elevation changes so we rarely had good audio quality at the farthest points from the paddock and saved most critical comms for the front-straight away.
In the center console, you can see the Motorola radio and that on/off switch is for the helmet blower.
This was also the fastest and loudest (though not super loud) car I’ve ever raced, along with racing amongst the fastest and loudest cars I’ve ever raced with (up to GT3 cars). I found that my super awesome Stilo helmet with the ear muffs were simply not enough, so I had an on-track vendor install the additional component so I can have molded ear plugs, in addition to the built-in noise cancelling ear muffs and that seemed to help quite a bit.
Sorg installed an air-conditioned helmet blower, versus the standard air blower I have in my PRO3 car. This thing worked great for the most part. It needs an air intake, then it cools the air before forcing it through the air tube. The issue I ran into was that in my first race stint of nearly 2 hours, I ran the whole time with the windows up. And even though we had the car’s fan circulating air into the cabin, everything got heat soaked and with 40 or so minutes left in my stint, I was heat soaked and the blower was pushing around hot air (which was still better than nothing).
One driver mentioned that the dash was a little tall and he didn’t love not being able to see the hood and thus not having as strong of a sense of where the car body limits were. This is true but for me, I’m used to sitting low and being short, so I never see the hood, so that didn’t bother me.
The cable management, cage design and installation is pristine, though it was interesting to see that the cage is actually a bolt-in cage, versus a welded in cage at the mounting points. I’m sure there is science and logic behind this but that took me by surprise.
Lastly, the car had a full AiM data logging system built in and capturing ECU channels. As usual, we lived and died by the predictive lap timing feature and during practices, we used the Apex Pro Driving Coach tool, where Seth set some baseline laps and then we focused on making the lights as green as possible in the corners.
How did it drive?
Before driving the car, Dan and Seth said that the M235i Racing would drive like a big PRO3 or Spec E46 car, of which are my only two reference points. And after the experience, they were mostly right.
With power steering, ABS and a paddle-shifting automatic transmission, it was the easiest car to race I’ve ever driven. What you do is still the same in terms of driving but it’s just easier. All inputs don’t require much of any force and the seat, seating position and Schroth belts are simply comfortable. For example, I have an Apple Watch and when I drive my PRO3 car (no ABS, power steering and a CAE shifter) I don’t need to ‘start a workout’ on my watch. The amount of work I am doing and vibrations automatically make the watch think I am working out and it logs a workout.
In the BMW M235i Racing? Not so much. After both my racing stints, of which both were nearly 2 hours, I was toast. Overheated, dehydrated, mentally and physically exhausted I looked at my watch and no workout detected. I had to manually have it check my heart rate about 5 minutes after getting out of the car and it was still at 134bpm.
Getting 3-wheel action is easy- peasy in this car! Photo credit: Petr Frýba
So yes, it was the hardest, most exhausting driving I’ve ever done but I might as well had been sitting in a beach chair.
This thing is fast.
With ~330whp and on full racing slicks, this car is easily the fastest car I’ve ever driven in a race. My perspective is a bit skewed because while we were hauling @$$, we were driving in the slowest class of the race. It literally felt like I was driving with an anchor dragging behind because of how stupid fast the TCR, GT4, GT3 and Porsche Cup cars were.
Still, this car is fast and when not over-driven, it is really easy to go fast. The key difference for me was to trust the higher than normal mid-corner speed the car could carry due to it’s more advanced suspension and big/meaty slicks. Seth and Dan mentioned that the Hankook’s were not the fastest slick available but are likely a great value because they tend to last at 90% of the peak grip for a good amount of time.
Bottom line is that this car could hang mid-corner with every car on-track except for the GT3 race cars and possibly the TCR cars. I could definitely feel the additional size and weight of the car transitioning weight from side to side, compared to a 2700 lbs PRO3 car but after a few laps, it felt normal.
Not a mistake – this car can hang with most any car mid-corner! Photo credit: Petr Frýba
Power-wise, it has gobs of torque but not an incredible top-end. Corner exit I could stay on the rears of several TCR cars but then they would slowly pull away, while just about every other car would leave us like if we were parked.
Braking was great and confidence inspiring. Braking for Turn 2 (the first chicane) and Turn 17 are full, 10 out of 10 braking zones. After building up my confidence, I found myself braking at around the 175 meter mark for the 1st chicane and the just before the 50 meter for the last chicane. HOLY CRAP! But the car would slow down, turn in and handle it, with no complaints.
Being a turbo car, there was a tiny bit of lag from throttle application to feeling the grunt. So it was even more critical to get to full throttle as soon as possible. For the most part, the LSD and the Hankook’s would take the full throttle corner after corner and lap after lap. I only got a bit more sideways than I’d want on corner exit a couple of times: once in turn 7 when I was testing the limits carrying speed through the corner and up the hill – simply too early on full throttle with too much steering input and a second time on the exit of the last chicane, when I got a bit more exit curb than the car could hold while try to get full throttle. I didn’t back out, just a simple steering correction as I still had a few inches before getting to the big turtle bumps that were there to eat up suspensions.
Final verdict: It could be the perfect race car for you and me at some point
At around $85k USD brand new, the BMW M235i Racing is seriously a great deal. For reference, to have someone build a top quality Spec E46 race car, it can cost upwards of $60k. $25k gets you a pretty much guaranteed quality and consistency, factory supported race car.
I’ve looked around and still not quite sure what they are going for used but I wouldn’t be surprised to see them available for $40-50k USD.
The driving experience is incredible and consumables are on the low end for a pro-level race car.
The issue for me is that I care most about competition. I want to race in big fields, with closer to spec cars and see how I stack up to the best competition around. And outside of Pirelli World Challenge, there isn’t a ton of these yet in the US and especially in the club racing ranks. If that were a different situation, I would seriously consider finding and racing a BMW M235i Racing.
I’ve heard and read that the BMW M235i Racing Cup is popular, with country and Europe-wide championships that are fielding 20+ cars at a time. If I lived in Europe, this would also be a strong option.
Until any of those things happen, I’ll have to settle for making my in-process, BMW Spec E-46 look and drive as close to this beauty as possible and racing with Sorg Rennsport 1-3 times a year. I can’t wait for the next time!
If I knew then what I know now: not a lot… have a larger budget. My track car has evolved as I feel I have needed at a rate that has been on a equal plain as my skill. Could use a little more power now……
Check out: Any of your local track’s and driving schools!
Early days of my track car.
My track weapon of choice is a 1987 BMW 325is. I bought it in 2007 with the idea that it would become my track car. It is what i wanted in a track car, it was in my price range, it was the color I wanted, it was well maintained by the previous owner, and all the work done on the car was at the company/shop I was working for at the time. the only thing it didn’t have was the small plastic late series bumpers. Not to sound snoody but I could look past the bumpers as that was the only bad mark I could come up with when looking at the car. At first i was also going to drive it on the road as well. Well that lasted about two weeks and a car with a bunch of good track race parts that had been wrecked in the guys driveway by a drunk driver became available. This was going to help my rack budget out very much that year. By the time
I had got my parts car home and used what i wanted and parted the rest, I was onto my car pretty cheap. And it had some good stuff at this point. The first parts push ended up with a full Ground Control coilover set, Treehouse Racing front control arm brackets, a set of SSR Comp wheels with Falken rt-215 tires ( in the day one of the top street tires), a new set of stainless brake lines, a low miles E30 M3 4.10 limited slip diff, a set of Powerflex subframe and rear trailing arm bushings, a Momo steering wheel hub adapter, and a new OEM set of euro head lights and grills and a pair of Bride sport seats. I added a set of brake pads, a steering wheel, and a pair of harnesses i had picked up a year or two before on sale. All these ended up costing about $1500. Like I said my track budget looked good that year. others have cost a bit more.
It still had some style at this point.
At this point I would say it was still a street car. It still had a back seat and carpet and a radio. I drove it like this for a couple months, but the track bug kept calling. So soon later I found a real race seat. No more reclining. This did now mean I was going to need to look into some sort of roll over protection as I had now defeated that safety measure. I did a lot of shopping and research about fit, style, cost, shipping, availability ect. The one that went in the car was made by a company called VSROne. It had the best clearance and fit in the car. It was not the cheapest option but for sure one I was OK with paying for. Remember I am not a fan of that compromised safety thing. So now the radio has half its speakers, there is no rear carpet or side panels anymore. The seat is in a fixed position. There is scaffolding in the back of the car. but looking forward from the drivers seat it could play the street car part for now……
And out goes the rear seat.
A couple events into the life there was a thirst for more cornering load. Need to find some tires. Lucky for me there is a local race series that runs a similar car to mine and they tend to go through a lot of tires. So after a little hunting I acquired some real track rubber. in this case early on it was Toyo RA1 tires. These are great tires! They last along time, they can take many heat cycles, they made a lot of sizes, they are one of the cheapest track tires around. If they were still in production I would still be on them. Anyway, now I got some rubber and the car is pretty good. Springs in the car are now a little soft, I can feel the car hitting bump stops and floating a little on the grippy tires. The car already had pretty stiff springs. It was a bit stiff for the street, but not to bad. Front springs were rated ant 375 lbs/ in and the rears 475 lbs/in. At this point I had been working on a few Pro3 cars and had learned a few things. I almost doubled the spring rate of the car. Went to 650 lbs/in front and 800 lbs/ in in the rear. This was the next level of feel I was looking for at the track. Man is it stiff. Think of driving a skate board. So in making the suspension on my car up to track use I ruined the street ride quality. Not the best street car anymore.
Gripped up at Portland.
Then there was the day I killed the carpet. Was still daily driving the car at this point when almost home from work the heater core blew a end tank and sprayed the entire left side of the carpet with coolant. For me at this point the decision was easy. Yank that smelly coolant soaked carpet out! All the rear was already gone so why not. The heater core fix itself is pretty easy, but the mess was amazing. couple issues I found with no carpet. The car is super loud, the passengers feet can get a bit warm, and I had no place to rest my foot when not on the clutch. So I built a dead pedal for it and that is all I reinstalled. Screw the passengers feet, and I can deal with a little noise, because racecar. Speaking of noise. I have had at least five different exhausts on the car. I bought it with a Dinan muffler, I killed that one looping turn 6 at Pacific Raceways in the rain. Then the custom Magnaflow cat back, this was great until I smashed it beyond repair at a PGP Time Attack on the rumble strips back when you could do that. Then I scored a IE stainless that was on the car for maybe three days, it was way to quite. I then built a Meghan racing muffler catback out of some spare parts. Didn’t look that cool but it was cheap and it worked. This was on the car until it was no longer driven everyday. It now has a pulse tuned equal length header and a flow matched exhaust built by the now closed Volvo custom shop RSI (R-Sport International) when they were developing a Pro3 race exhaust system. The sound on this is amazing but its is on the very loud side.
This is a street car still?
So now I have been tracking and driving this absurd track car that I have convinced myself is still a street car to the point that it has worn out again. The shocks are all worn and the fronts are dead. DEAD. All the rear suspension bushings, rear wheel bearings, the drive shaft, and a couple other normal maintenance items. So as you should do with any track car i went through and replaced all worn items i found again. I also took this opportunity to think about things I would want to change and the largest one I could come up with was the the shock travel. The car always felt a little held back by the shocks. The valving in them was set for a way softer spring combo, the travel was near the bottom of the shock stroke and they seemed to bottom out a lot because of this. So after much deliberation I got a set of BC Racing coilovers. you can order them valved to specific springs and come with some pretty good hardware. I got a set valved to the springs I had, and because I had springs I had them ship me a softer set (These will be used in another car). I did have to weld the strut tube to my spindle but that is something well in my comfort zone. Once installed and set and tested, I was able to get the result out of the car i was looking for. if felt way better on track, the shock adjustments are now felt, the cat doesn’t bottom on the shocks and they are running in there normal stroke range. I also again made another safety up date at this time. I removed the old race belts and my trusty Sparco race seat and installed a new set of Hans device compliant belts and a Momo head restraint seat. Also upgraded the passenger side belts from 5 pt to 6 pt. Again you can never be to safe.
Wooof!
The look of the car was also something that needed a update. Wheels and tires are getting long in the tooth so lets start with that. We are gonna put a little larger tire on it as well. So off come the old trusty 15×7 wheels and 225-50/15 tires and on go the new Roto 17×8 wheels and the same Toyo tire in a larger 235-40/17. This has created a new problem. The slightly larger size is now hitting the bumper trim and stop the tire. Bring on the fender roller. Little work there and they are in! Thats pretty up to date on the car as of this blog. Still on this seasons update list is a set of Massive Brakes big brake kit and a Diff limited slip unit rebuild. then next season the removal of the old roll bar and sunroof and the installation of a roll cage and clean up the interior wiring. Stay tuned in!
What: The decade long story of me trying to build a track car
If I knew then, what I know now: I would do the same damn thing
Product to check out: Strait jacket. No seriously, like for the crazies. But try to get a fire-resistant one so you can wear it on the track!
My first cool car – 1993 BMW 325i
One of the things we would like to share are some of the projects that we are working on during our own free time. I will share the tale of my track car that I am building. It starts many years ago, and actually involves several cars at this point. The story goes! In 2004, I bought a 1993 325i from a nice couple and started driving it. I was always a car guy, and was one year graduated from high school and really wanted a “cool” car. This is what I ended up with. I loved that car and drove it everywhere I could!
Cool car… ENGAGED!
As the years go past, I became more of a race participant, than a fan. I started working at the track on the weekends helping people with their race cars and stuff. At the same time, I also started getting into driving as a sport more. My BMW was the perfect delivery device for an entrance into motor sports. It was a good solid car, had good power, great brakes and handling. I started to modify it for auto-cross, then eventually took the next step and started to prep it for track days. I did a few track school days and got really hooked. From then on, I was building a race car!
Transitioning from a ‘street’ car to a ‘race’ car
I stripped most of the interior out of the car to save the weight, also removing the sound deadening at the same time (which was a BIG job!). I got a fixed back racing seat, and a roll bar, some harnesses. I made it loud. Put a performance clutch and flywheel in it. Installed a shorter differential, got bigger brakes for it. And was still driving the car everyday. It was fun, but loud and uncomfortable. I loved it. I drove over 100k miles in that car while I had it, but ultimately had to sell the car just short of it being a full race car due to a crash I had while driving a fellow racers car (that will be a story for a different day!).
I made it loud. Put a performance clutch and flywheel in it. Installed a shorter differential, got bigger brakes for it. And was still driving the car everyday. It was fun, but loud and uncomfortable. I loved it.
We had gotten into Chump Car racing and had helped some people on a few events and as a result, had earned a chance to drive the car for a 36 hour race in Spokane in 2013. I had never driven at Spokane before, and was a little nervous, but was feeling OK because we were racing the same car that I drive all of the time, an E36. I was racing hard with the front runners during the race when I lost track of my internal map, and made a poor move to pass that landed me on the dirt. I lost it, and the car was wrecked. Then I had to pay for it.
Going racing always carries risk
I ended up selling my beloved 325 to a very close friend of mine. He was a fellow racer, and had been looking for a chassis to do his own build on. My car was a prime choice for him to use, and we struck a deal. I was able to recover and pay for the car I crashed by selling my race car. That was a hard lesson, but a very valuable one! I learned that your track car, can be gone in 2 seconds and there may be very little you can do about it! It took a little bit of time for me to start thinking about my 325 after selling it. But as time past, I missed it more and more.
Three years after the crash, I was able to get back into a race car again, and felt very good when doing it. I then went on the hunt for a new track car. I found a 1994 325 that had some decent prep done by a nice couple that was going to turn it into a rally car. I found it on Craigslist after they just ended up going out and finding themselves a finished Volvo rallycar to use. I bought the car, and it felt like home! I Started getting it ready to track with and found a couple of good deals online for some good used race bits. The game was on.
Getting goldie all hooked up!
There were a few things it had been prepped better and that I had not done yet on my previous 325, but was not nearly as far a long in other areas. I started to chip away at a to-do list and now it is starting to shape up nicely! This is where the story starts to get interesting. In an attempted to get the new 325 spec’d out like the old one. I struck up conversation with my friend who had bought mine before. He had not really done much with the chassis, and was maybe thinking about getting rid of the car to do something else. We talked about it a few times over the next couple of months, and eventually came to a deal for me to buy the car back from him! The idea is to get a lot of the cool or good stuff I had before swapped over to this new car since it was much more complete at this time.
The new car sitting all nice and clean!
Two become one
As of today, I have the two cars in the shop currently becoming one! It has been a very long process, but I am very excited to have gone full circle and have a car to use for track days and racing that I will be proud of. I like the idea of building one over buying a car. You have the chance to spend way more money doing so, but by building the car yourself, it is bespoke, and custom fit for YOU. That is what I find so great about it. The car is my version of what I think is a good way to hit the track! There is no right or wrong way, but the more miles you log, the more you will know what you want to do and do not want when you are out there! I will share more as further stages of build happen! I would say that this car is my “baby” but it will never be treated like a baby. It will be used, hard, but well cared for. This is my racing appliance! Thanks for letting me share some about my track car build, and always remember to have fun!
