Today, we’re excited to release another update of the BMW Spec E46 mod car for Assetto Corsa.
There is only one update to the car but it’s an important one, we’ve updated the suspension geometry to be based exactly off a real-world SE46 race car. Below you’ll see that we took measurements of every component of the chassis and suspension geometry down to the millimeter (while we were building a new SE46 race car), so the virtual car could handle as closely to the real-car, as possible.
The end result? Generally the car feels easier to drive and we found an additional .5-1 second almost immediately (after playing with the setup).
All existing owners will get this update and all future customers will get v1.3 moving forward. Let us know what you think!
Thanks to everyone for the support on the SE46 car for Assetto Corsa. We have an updated build to share!
Here’s what is new:
Front and rear anti-roll bars are now adjustable.
The car now comes with additional base factory colors for the car. The sponsored race car livery is still the same and the default but now you have new options.
The .zip file now contains a new folder called “Templates”. This folder contains a Photoshop file (.psd) that you can use to create your own livery.
The passenger side cage tube now goes in the proper location (aesthetic change only).
Wheels now have motion blur.
Enhanced levels of details and interior is now optimized for low resolution graphics cards/monitors
The rear-view mirror has been adjusted down so it is more easily viewable when not in VR mode.
The description, power figures and graphs have been updated.
Dyno graphs are based off a real-world chassis dyno and 15% added to torque and whp for drive-train losses.
How to get the update:
For those who already purchased the car, an email has been sent (including initial contributors to the build) where they can access it and all new purchasers will get the new build in the download link. Click here to check out and buy the car!
How to install the update:
Download the update
Make sure Assetto Corsa is not running.
Right click the .zip folder and select “Extract All” – do not just double click into the folder.
Find the “contents” folder and copy that folder
Go to this path: C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\content\cars
If you already have the previous version, delete the previous version of the car, which should be a folder called “bmw_m3_e46”. If not, skip this step and go to step 7.
Go up to levels in that director to: C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\
Paste the “contents” folder you copied above
Close the file explorer window
That’s it!
Over the next couple months, via our friends at Track Attack, we will have the capability to log telemetry data from Assetto Corsa and compare it with the real world data we already have from several tracks. We’ll use this data to further fine-tune the physics model.
As always, let us know what you think and thanks again for the support!
With the explosive growth of simulator driving for not just training but actual competition, big time dollars and rewards attached, we get more and more questions about how to get started building a simulator setup and specifically, what to get.
Still wondering if simulator driving is really that worth it? Check out this podcast from Speed Secrets and this video about William Byron – now a driver for Hendricks Motorsports, who didn’t grow up driving karts or cars but rather, simulators.
This can be a complicated space because there are a lot of options. In this second post, let’s go down one specific path base on what we think is the most important question.
Why do you want a simulator setup? I want to use simulators to accelerate my driving or car in the real world.
eSports is exploding in popularity with games like Madden, Fortnite and Halo being at the center global gaming tournaments. Gamers from around the world train and compete against world-class gamers at in-person and virtual tournaments all over the world and for real money.
This post is focused primarily for those who want currently or are planning to drive in the real-world and want to use simulators to accelerate their development. Getting to the track in the real-life to get quality seat time, driver coaching, and car development is not cheap. Simulators are an excellent path to do all of those things more often, at a lower cost and increasingly with direct correlation to what happens in the real world.
Recommendation: Go with a PC-based simulator like iRacing, Assetto Corsa (PC edition), Assetto Corsa Competizione or RFactor 2. Yes, Gran Turismo and Forza have had tournaments where the winners compete in real life for chances to be race car drivers as a profession but those are the exceptions.
Things to get:
There is no way to get around it – this will be more expensive because you are trying to replicate real life, of which a lot of what happens in real life is about how the car and track sound and feel of your inputs.
A quality PC that can keep up with the display you want. The main thing here is a decent processor and ram but the beefiest graphics card you can get and the bar at this level is a little higher than at the ‘simulator only’ level. Here are a couple options:
A PC desktop with a decent i7 processor, 16GB+ of RAM and a 6GB Nvidia GeForce GTX1070 or equivalent from AMD. Get the absolute best graphics card you can get – it will be worth it.
40”+ single monitor/TV: this is not really an option. If you want to really focus on improving your real-world driving, you need an immersive experience.
Sim rig with a seat
A sim rig/cockpit is no longer optional. You need the seating position, field of view and access to the driver controls to be as close to real-life as possible and you can only really do that with a proper and sturdy sim rig. Here are a few options:
DOF Reality – makes a very low cost sim chassis that also includes motion.
RSeat – makes all kinds of sim chassis with and without motion. Most importantly, they look very stout.
Sim Lab – we recently got a GT1 Evo chassis and are loving the sturdiness and adjustability
Motion platform
Yes, it’s now close to a requirement. Driving in race cars on tracks is a rough experience where you’re getting tossed around as you go over bumps and curbs. The feeling of the car pitching forward when you hammer the brakes, the car getting upset as you take too much curb or the backend coming loose when you carry too much speed into a corner or get on throttle too quickly – you need to feel that. All of those things in real life tell you what’s going on and they remind you of the mortal consequences of having more bravery than talent.
Want everything integrated and ready to rock? There several companies who sell fully built and ready to rock motion simulators. Here are a few:
There are few other things that will accelerate your driver development than quality motion simulator seat time.
The quality of your experience is completely dependent on the components you put into your PC and peripherals. If you want better graphics, get a better graphics card. Want better FOV, change your display setup. Want an even more immersive motion experience with real-time data streaming and coaching? You can do that too!
The force feedback and vibration capabilities of the steering hubs and transducers on the market are amazing. You can buy components and configure then so that you feel everything on your feet, butt, abs, legs and hands as you do in real life. You will have a generally authentic steering input and feedback experience.
There is a growing number of retail locations where you can rent seat time on very high-end simulators and get coaching from top-level coaches.
Cons:
No longer “welcome”, you are right in the middle of the slippery slope! It is now the cost of a small car to get a decent motion simulator up and running. It starts in the $5-10k range and goes into the $50-75k range. There are simulators well above those ranges but those are reserved for commercial applications.
Driving consistently well in a simulator is hard and even more difficult with motion. Most people are lucky to end their first 30 minutes in a simulator simply not crashing or losing control. Stick with it!
Pretty much everything is more complicated to setup. There is almost no plug and play experience for any component. You need to connect them, install drivers and configure/calibrate.
The physics and tire model are better than the console world but vary across simulator platforms.
There is even more you can buy, which can be good – for example, buttkickers are sound based vibration devices that give even more feedback to the seat, pedals and generally corners of the car.
Example setups: I’ve only built one motion rig and would be considered “entry level” for a quality motion experience.
Example 1: Entry level, motion with a rig: Everything here is exactly what I have on my current motion sim but my graphics card cost a bit more a year ago than they do today.
Total Cost: $8,741.39 (doesn’t include taxes or shipping)
Custom built desktop gaming PC w/Nvidia GTX1080Ti: $1,200
iRacing subscription: $80/year
SimXperience Accuforce Hub and steering wheel w/button box: $1,299.00
If I knew then what I know now, what would I do differently?
The Next Level Racing cockpit is pretty good, and I don’t entirely regret my purchase decision, especially because their motion platform integrates seamlessly BUT if I were building another rig (which I will in the next 6 months or so), I would try the DOF motion cockpit because I don’t love the following about the Next Level Racing cockpit:
The flex in the chassis, especially under heavy braking. First, it flexes and since it wasn’t designed to flex in the first place, the amount of flex is variable. This isn’t great when you are trying to hit your marks lap after lap or making minor adjustments to brake application to shave off tenths of seconds.
Lack of adjust ability. Having the seating position, steering wheel, shifter and pedals in the perfect position for your body is critical to driving fast and driving consistent. Any unnecessary mental energy used to figure out where things are or having to adjust to not having the controls in natural/intuitive positions will make you go slower. The NLR rig is essentially fixed in place after you set things up and for me personally, we had to add a wood block to the pedal box so that my heels could stay planted and reach properly. The manual shifter position is okay, but I really wish I could move it another inch or two closer to me. Lastly, with the motion set, the slider doesn’t work.
You listed the Fanatec pedals but you have some other fancy looking pedals. What gives?
Yes, when the Thrustmaster wheel hub failed after about a year of use, I upgraded to the Fanatec hub but I wanted as close to the real-world race car pedal feel as possible. On this rig I currently have the Derek Spears Designs pedals which are amazing and use real Wilwood racing pedal box components. You don’t need these if you are only simulator racing. I also have two other rigs with the Fanatec V2.5 Clubsport pedals, both the floor mounted and the hanging configurations. They are solid and when you add the bump stops for the brake pedal, they are close to the DSD pedals but still substantially lower cost.
With the explosive growth of simulator driving for not just training but actual competition, big time dollars and rewards attached, we get more and more questions about how to get started building a simulator setup and specifically, what to get.
Still wondering if simulator driving is really that worth it? Check out this podcast from Speed Secrets and this video about William Byron – now a driver for Hendricks Motorsports, who didn’t grow up driving karts or cars but rather, simulators.
This can be a complicated space because there are a lot of options. In this first post, let’s go down one specific path base on what we think is the most important question.
Why do you want a simulator setup? I just want to have fun!
I want to have fun: Many people simply want to drive some awesome cars and a variety of tracks, without taking things too seriously. You don’t care or want to bother with dealing with things like tire pressures, spring rates, shock settings, etc. You want to jump into a simulator, start driving, sliding and maybe even trade some paint with others or barriers, on your own. Best of all, it’s the cheapest way to get into simulator driving.
Recommendation: Go with console-based simulators like Forza, Gran Turismo, Project Cars and Dirt.
This is optional because there’s several ways you can get your steering wheel base setup mounted to a desk, with the monitor right in front of you.
It’s best to have your pedals secured onto something so you can really work the pedals but in most bases, just having them wedged against something on both sides and the back is good enough.
Pros:
Console-based simulators are generally of super high-quality graphics in the cars and the tracks.
The tracks are essentially what they are like in real-life, it’s a great way to learn a track.
Tons of cars. Everything from high-performance street cars to Formula 1 cars.
The force feedback capabilities of the Fanatec and Thurstmaster lines are great and good, respectively. You will have a generally authentic steering input and feedback experience.
A great tool to focus on your getting your eyes to look far ahead and get ahead of what the car is doing.
Getting a console is much less expensive than building a gaming PC and the there are some lower cost peripheral options from Fanatec. See our shopping list below, where you can get started for under $1k USD!
Cons:
Relative to iRacing, the quality of online racing against other real people is not great. People complain about getting crashed into at the rookie and lower levels of iRacing but online racing, outside of some of the bigger tournaments on Forza and Gran Turismo can be downright horrible.
The physics and tire model are simply not as good as iRacing, RFactor and Assetto Corsa.
Limited triple screen options. It is doable to get a triple screen setup but it’s much more complicated and expensive. A better option would be a large curved screen or virtual reality headset.
Aside from the Fanatec Clubsport V2 and newer pedals, the pedal options are not great. Specifically, is the feel from the brake pedal. Braking is what separates the good from the great and having a realistic and consistent braking feel is critical. Most of these console game quality pedals have limited resistance and you essentially train your braking based on the position of pedal, not the pressure and feedback from the pedal.
There are options to add a rubber bump stop to the brake pedal (of which I did to my Thrustmaster setup) which makes things better but still not as great as some of the high-end PC only brake kits.
Quality – this may have improved but just simply the quality of the components is not great. I was using the setup pictured below to really work on my driving, so I was put on hundreds of hours on the components per year. If I recall correctly, the Thrustmaster steering wheel base lasted just over a year before it just stopped responding one day. That was when I decided to upgrade to Fanatec and shift to a PC simulator and iRacing.
Example setups:
Thrustmaster, Forza and Xbox One: This was my first “simulator” setup going back to 2012 or so. I felt a little intimidated with getting into PC-based stuff, so between a Christmas present from my in-laws, my wife and my own purchases, I had a decent Forza based setup. I spent hours working on fixed setup time attach competitions, primarily in a Mazda Miata and trying to build the cars I had in the real-world, in the game (Mitsubishi Lancer Evoluiont 9). All in, this setup cost about $1,200.
Total Cost (assumes you already have a TV): $1,428.76 + S/H + Tax w/PlaySeat. Under $1k w/out Playseat.
Xbox One S Forza Motorsport Bundle: $389.99
Thrustmaster VG TMX PRO Wheel, Base and pedals: $321.81
Thrustmaster TH8 shifter: $217.96
Playseat sim rig: $499
For about a 3-month period I had a Gran Turismo and PS3 setup with a Logitech setup but it wasn’t any better than what I had with Forza so I sold everything off. Total cost was right around the same as the Forza.
Do you have an awesome console based sim set up? Post some pics in the comments!
Check out future posts on two other paths:
I want to get serious about simulator driving: This means you don’t care at all or much about driving in the real-world. You are all-in on simulator driving.
I want to use simulators to help me be a better driver in the real world: This means you currently or plan to be driving on track in the real-world and you want a simulator to help with driver and car development
This is the last day of iRacing before the big race weekend at Portland International Raceways. The goal today was the same – another 20+ lap sessions, with no accidents, pushing for consistent, fast but not personal best laps. Just get into a rhythm and pound out lap, after lap, after lap – all near the limit (or at least mine).
The session started off normal, with low-1:20 lap times steadily falling and then suddenly, lap 6 – BOOM! 1:19.410 – new personal best.
I smell blood in the water…
That lap was good but there were some small mistakes, I can do better. So I put my head down and starting pounding away trying to repeat it and make improvements. over the next 10 or so laps, I got close several times and even spinning at one point, but keeping it out of the wall.
I checked up, let the tires cool down, as I would in real life and went back at it.
More mid-1:19’s and suddenly… 1:19.351 – another half tenth shaved off. But I wanted more, especially with a low fuel load, I knew I could do it. So I pushed on but ultimately, I dropped a tire on the exit of the chicane and ended up with a 1:19.398.
What happened?
I found that if I can slow down, just a tiny bit more, in the entrance of the ‘esses’ and turn 7 and the chicane, I was able to get the car turned faster and back on throttle and full throttle, sooner. Same lesson from before, just applying it better and better.
Check out the throttle traces of the graph below.
Now seeing as that new personal best was done at the end of the session, with yes lower fuel – it was also well past the peak performance of the tires. Something I started thinking about today, as I have been preparing for the Portland race this weekend, is that I’ve noticed that many times, in a real world race, my fastest lap of the race comes in around lap 2-4.
This is when the tires, brakes and everything are at their prime conditions. I wonder what could happen if we did a low fuel run, with just 5 or so laps and fresh tires? I am thinking that the lap times would come down significantly!
I’m not going to lie – I had a long night of work on Sunday night and didn’t go to bed until just past 1am PST. So when the alarm went off at 5:30am, I could barely move enough to shut the alarm down. So I did not race at all on Monday, instead deciding to be as fresh as I could for the next morning.
And it was a good trade off – I was not only able to put together another 19 lap session with no crashes but I got a new personal best, mid-way through the session for a 1:19.476 – almost .3 faster than before.
What happened?
I’ve heard the following in various places and this is exactly what happened – whoever gets on full throttle first, without lifting, wins. I slowed down just a touch more for Turn 7, was able to get and stay on full throttle, just a fraction of a second sooner. This resulted in a massive drop in lap time as we approached the back-straight chicane and then, in this section, I worked on having a wider entry into the chicane, clipping both FIA rumble strips and getting on throttle as soon as I could.
All together, these two changes resulted in that almost .3 second improvement in fastest lap time!
Faster Average Lap Times and Average Fast Lap Times
More and more, this is what I am most excited about. Not just being able to put together one flying lap, but being able to be faster, consistently. My average lap times improved by almost .1 seconds and my average fast lap times improved by just over .2 seconds! Boom!
Specifically, it’s similar reasons as to how I improved my ultimate fastest lap – better runs into the back straight, the chicane but also, being able to get the car turned, faster and carry more speed through the ‘esses’.
Preparing for the real world
I’m really jacked about the progress, especially with a big race coming this next weekend at Portland International Raceways, with the Chicane. This track, because we run it twice and has been one of my weaker tracks, is exactly why I chose to train with Road Atlanta as the test track. Getting on throttle, quick, for long straight aways and a chicane are what I need to improve on for this track and excited to see how this translates to on-track results.
I have been working on driving more consistent… err… consistently, with some success but today, it finally all clicked and came together like never before.
I woke up, tired as usual, did my stretching, some cross-crawls (thanks Ross Bentley and Speed Secrets!) and lazy eight’s, just like I do in the real world and got on my way. And for the first time ever, 20+ laps of just about all clean driving. I did drop some tires and got a little sideways but I forced myself to try to save the car, slow down and collect myself, just like in the real world. And it worked!
The best part? Nestled in there are five sub-1:20 lap times and I didn’t feel like I was risking life and limb to make them happen!
On average, what changed?
It was really just one segment – segment 7, which includes turns 10a, 10b, 11 and 12. The chicane in the back straight away and all the way to start/finish. With my next real-world race being at Portland International Raceways, this time being run with the ‘Festival Chicane’ in the annual Chicane Challenge event, getting a great run out of the chicane has been top of mind for me.
I made it my goal today to get the best dang run out of the chicane, on power and going to full throttle, without having to lift, the top priority and I think it’s worked! Here are a couple of proof points:
1. Braking earlier, settling the car, aiming towards the backside of the 10ab apex and getting on throttle faster.
2. No new personal best but the average fast lap, is faster!
Just barely but the trend holds true even for the fastest laps – I am braking slightly earlier, softer and getting on throttle sooner.
Today was one of the most satisfying days – not only was I able to get into a groove, I worked up a serious sweat and did not have a single incident – how it should be in the real world. I’m excited to keep this going and build momentum of sessions where I get serious laps in and while finding little nuggets of speed here and there.
When I first started a couple weeks ago, I would not have even dreamt of low 1:19 lap times. Now I believe they are not only possible but even 1:18’s are possible in the next 30 days!
With the weather and track settings held constant, I was excited to get out and drive with more confidence that whatever improvements (or not) that happened, were of my own doing.
One thing that I still don’t love, is that I am still wrecking the car, regularly early on a session. It feels like it just takes me a few laps (and a wreck) to get into things. Today was no exception; an out-lap, a decent opening lap and boom. I am in the wall. I need to figure out how to cut that out, whether that means starting slower the first few laps, knowing that my mind and body just aren’t up to speed yet. This might also be because it is usually between 5:15AM and 5:45AM when I heading out and have only been awake for 15 – 30 minutes. Regardless, it needs to stop.
New Personal Record! Wait, huh?
With very little warning or expectation, on the very next outing, second flying lap – there it is, a new personal best. Barely but still – a 1:19.606. Looking back at the data, we can see why this happened but at the time, I was very confused. So much so that as I tried to repeat the feat, I kept dropping a wheel, resulting in dirty laps.
Eventually, I got too sloppy and hit the wall again. A little frustrated, I decided to back off – not fixate on the fastest lap time and just get in good, quality laps in the mid to low 1:20’s and if 1:19’s happened – awesome! And you know what, that’s exactly what happened (well, after one more wreck).
Over the next 16 laps (I had to cut the session as my kiddo was up), all but three laps were nice and tidy. I was on such a roll, that I decided to pull over to the side and intentionally end the session versus being forced to end the session because I had crashed and my time was up.
I can’t say that I truly made progress in terms of a going faster, as in qualifying lap faster, because while I did improve my personal best, it wasn’t by much and I am not exactly sure how I did it. However, I feel I can confidently click off low to mid 1:20 lap times, of which even yesterday, was a tall order.
Not only can do I ‘feel’ this way – but I can quantify it. Check out this really cool way of comparing laps that Virtual Racing School has; you can compare the ‘Average Fast Lap’ and your ‘Average Lap’, of which in both measures, I improved by about .3 seconds. This is great because most people (including me) in the real world, if they’re looking at data, fixate on the fastest lap of the session, which usually happens once and no other lap is close, where we should be focusing on how to improve what ‘typically’ happens.
I love this analysis and VRS even creates a speed trace and accompanying channels for those averages – beautiful! You can pretty clearly see that the reason I am on ‘average’ faster today versus yesterday is two fold:
Getting on throttle sooner and staying on throttle
Staying flat through the last turn (gut check time! Even in the virtual world)
I’m still exhausted from the last race weekend but jacked about the progress that is being made, little by little.
Today was interesting. I woke up pretty jacked about making a big jump in a personal best lap time and my goal was just to continue being able to get low 1:20 and high 1:19 lap times, with this new found level of performance. At first, everything started as normal, with pretty easily being able to get into the 1:21’s but then something strange happened. I could not get under 1:20.368. In fact, once I got that lap time, I could barely even get close to that lap time.
Frustrated but not deterred, I came off the track and checked the setup. All looked good and I went back out to run a stint until I ran out of gas. 18 laps later and mostly 1:21 lap times, I had an off and decided to call it a day.
What the crap is going on?
I immediately went into the Virtual Racing School console to see what was going on? What was I doing that caused me to completely lose the progress I had been making the past several days? Was it a learning too much, too fast, hangover? Was I feeling under the weather?
The weather! It took me several minutes but I eventually noticed this below. I had been using iRacing with the default ‘dynamic weather’ setting, in the ‘on’ position. I don’t know exactly how they decided to set the weather and track state but this session ended up being a warmer session, with the track temperature being 8 degrees warmer.
The impact of weather conditions on performance
For most cars and tire compounds, especially high performance or racing tires, we know it can be too cold. Too cold not only does not let the tires come up to temperature and become that nice, somewhat sticky and tar-like look and feel but it can also make the tire rubber compound brittle. e.g. negative traction.
But it apparently can also be too hot or maybe not too hot yet, but at least there is an inverse relationship at some point, between heat and grip. Similar to like when you accidentally light up the tires or lock them up, the tires get over-heated and need some time to cool down before the expected grip returns, apparently, higher ambient air temps and track temps, have an impact on tire grip and I imagine, engine performance and thus, power output. Engines want cool, dense air.
So, what happened specifically?
Truth be told, I am not sure exactly yet. I don’t know how to quantify grip potential (yet) or power output (yet) in general or based on changes in track temp or ambient temp but, it appears the following happened:
I lost time across the whole track, except 1 section (section 3).
I lost .3 seconds in section 3, which is primarily the end of the esses and turn 6. I braked earlier, softer but wasn’t able to get back on throttle sooner. In fact, I was only able to get back on throttle later.
And this was on my best lap of the session. When I looked at a more typical lap of the session, a 1:20.652, the losses were even more pronounced.
My hypothesis is that even a 10 degree change in weather, at some point near the high end of the operating temperature of tires and engines, has an impact. I imagine that going from 50 degrees and dry to 60 degrees and dry has an impact but maybe not as big as going from 70 degrees to 80 degrees and dry.
Moving forward: Hold variables constant
Since I am focused on improving my driving as best as possible, I’m going to do something that is complete crap in the real world – I am going to establish and hold the same weather and track conditions from now on. Right now, I am trying to improve as best as I can as a driver, make changes in myself or the setup and be able to trace a connection between those changes and my performance. I’ve already tried to hold as many other variables constant by driving the same track, the same car and now, essentially the same setup. This will not be any different – I don’t want to go faster by accident because the air temp is cooler.
After this 30 days is over and possibly before hand, I’m going to turn that random selection back on so it forces me to adapt to changing conditions but for now, its time to play superhero and control the weather.
Yesterday and this past weekend, was a real-life race weekend and while it was all in all, a very successful weekend, it was exhausting! So exhausting that last night (Sunday), I was sound asleep by 9pm and it when the alarm went off at 5am this morning, I just couldn’t do it.
So my racing for the day didn’t happen until this evening, after a full day of work, being a dad and before dinner. Being so tired and having to jump immediately back into my day job, I didn’t even have time to think about what my goal should be today. So I just decided to start driving and see if and what would translate from my weekend of real world diving.
Holy crap – new personal best!
It was kind of weird, I just started driving and almost automatically, everything felt “normal”. It is not like I feel overwhelmed with the speed of the Mercedes AMG GT3 car, even though I’ve never driven anything like that type of car in real life but with how hard we drive the PRo3 cars and how physically demanding Pacific Raceways is, driving the AMG GT3 felt not as stressful.
The first few laps felt good and I was immediately able to get into the mid-1:20.xxx lap times but then, boom – 1:19.908! I was so startled that I was able to find this pace so quickly that I dropped a tire on the exit of turn 12, so it technically didn’t count. On the following lap, I was able to brake lighter and carry so much more speed into turn 1, that I found myself .25x seconds faster than my personal lap and… I crapped my pants and proceeded to spin out as I carried too much speed into Turn 3.
Calm down, breathe and carry on
As I mentioned yesterday, my main focus of the weekend was to brake earlier, lighter and have reduce my brake to throttle transition times to as short as possible. Trail brake and… throttle! No wasted time! So, that’s what I think carried forward and I think, just having more seat time with a high volume of information coming at my at a fast rate.
So I had crashed, exited the car, took a few steps to calm down and said “ok, just relax – I can clearly do a sub 1:20.000 lap time but just focus on the basics.”
It took me a few false starts where I was too excited and got in trouble but finally, I was able to put together a stint of 7, mostly clean laps where the low 1:20’s and then… two, clean, 1:19.xxx laps came through. YES!!!!!! 1:19.758 – new personal best!!!!!!
How did this happen? The shoes?
I have to admit – before this session, during and after, I did not look at data at all. Whatever caused this to happen was some cumulative effect of my training over the past 10 days and the intense and positive, real-world experience in racing I had the last few days. My best guess is the cumulative effect of repetition and “chunking” learning experiences – I’ve not only had racing on my mind each day for the past 10 days in terms of actually doing, but I’ve been thinking about it regularly throughout the day, the things I am working on and learning but I’ve also forced myself to think about my experiences and learning differently because of these articles and the videos I’ve recorded.
Someone smart once said that a way to truly ensure you understand something is to not just practice that thing but to teach it to other people. That process of explaining it to others, with a variety of analogies or other techniques, forces a deeper level of understanding and I think that has been helping.
I’m planning to write a blog post just on the skill of learning, based on these experiences and some books I’ve been reading about learning but if that isn’t what caused the improvement, maybe it was the shoes?