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From Console to Cockpit: Using Simulators to Develop Real-World Driving Skills

Breaking into high-performance driving can feel overwhelming, even with resources like driving schools and track days. For those new to this world, the challenges of cost, access, and preparation can seem daunting. Thankfully, there’s a way to build your driving skills and confidence right from the comfort of your home: simulators.

Why a simulator? Because you have to practice driving a car in a high performance manner and figure out and learn tracks.

If you’re just getting started, you’re not alone in feeling that even the simulator world can be complex. Gran Turismo 7 and Forza Motorsport have come a long way in recent generations, offering a balance of accessibility and realism. While they may not be as hardcore as iRacing or RFactor2, their physics engines have significantly improved from earlier arcade-style versions. The games now feature photo-realistic graphics, delivering some of the most visually stunning racing environments available in any form of media.

But in this guide, we’re focusing on the simplest and most accessible path: using a simulation-based game like Gran Turismo 7 on PlayStation 5 or Forza Motorsport on Xbox Series S or X, paired with a steering wheel and pedal set from makers such as Fanatec, Moza, Thurstmaster or Logitech. Why consoles? It’s the lowest cost and least complex way to get into sim driving.

In future posts, we’ll cover the more hardcore, usually more expensive, and more complex but more realistic world of PC simulators.


The Wheel and Pedal Set

While a controller technically works (and there are some seriously fast controller based sim drivers in the world), investing in a steering wheel and pedal set transforms the experience. Remember, you’re doing this because you want to drive in the real world, so you need to replicate the real world as best you can. You need to better replicate the sport driving seating and body position. Driving a car via a game controller won’t help you in driving a car with your hands, neck, feet, core, etc…

Here are some recommendations tailored to beginners using Gran Turismo 7 or Forza Motorsport:

  • Moza R3 Racing Wheel and Pedals: A fantastic entry-level option offering responsive feedback and solid build quality. It’s compatible with both PC and consoles, making it a versatile choice for beginners looking for immersive gameplay.
  • Logitech G29/G920: Affordable and compatible with both PlayStation (G29) and Xbox (G920), this set offers solid force feedback and durability.
  • Thrustmaster T248: A step up in features, it supports force feedback and customizable pedal resistance, making it great for beginners aiming for a more immersive experience.
  • Fanatec DD: For those wanting a premium experience, Fanatec offers wheel bases with direct drive technology, providing incredibly realistic feedback. Pair it with the Fanatec pedals and steering wheels for a plug and play experience.

Key features to look for include:

  • Force Feedback: Simulates the forces acting on the car for realistic feel via the steering wheel.
  • Responsive Pedals: Allows precise throttle and brake modulation.
  • Adjustable Settings: Customizable settings to match your preferences and skill level.

A basic setup can cost anywhere from $300 to $1,000, offering a significant return in terms of immersion and skill development.

All of the options above have options where the wheel and pedals can be a fixed to a desk or ultimately not require a full cockpit setup. But at some point, if you’re really dedicated to driving well in real life, you’ll end up needing to get a cockpit solution but there are many to choose from (something we’ll cover in future blog posts).

Below is the simulator setup we put in my son’s room:

  • We had an extra LG LCD TV around the house (wall mounted) – $0
  • Xbox Series X – $500
  • Fanatec CSL DD QR2 bundle w/Xbox and PC compatible wheel – $500
  • Fanatec CSL pedals – $300
  • Next Level Racing Go Kart Plus Cockpit – $500
  • Forza Motorsport – included in Game Pass subscription but base price is $60

Everything was plug and play. No drivers or software to install. Everything just works and you still have the ability to adjust wheel feedback settings within each game.

Note that unless you are for sure going to drive a manual car in real life, stick to getting a 2-pedal set. Since this is my son’s simulator (though I drive it a ton!) we haven’t gotten close to having him drive an H-Pattern shifter. The extra cost of the 3-pedal set was unnecessary.


How to Practice Effectively on a Simulator

To help our drivers develop real-world skills through simulators, we recommend following a structured approach with clear benchmarks:

  1. Master Consistency: Start by choosing any car and track combination. If there is one that you can drive in real life, pick that one but it honestly doesn’t matter much. Maybe don’t start with the Nordschleife at the Nürburgring due to the massive length of a lap. The goal is to complete at least 10 consecutive laps within 0.5 seconds of your fastest time, without spinning or crashing. This builds smoothness and precision.
  2. Progress to Career Mode Races: Once consistent lap times are achieved, begin participating in career mode races against AI drivers. This introduces racecraft, such as overtaking, defending, and maintaining focus in a competitive environment.
  3. Increase AI Difficulty Gradually: After completing 10+ races without incidents of your own making, start increasing the difficulty of the AI opponents. This challenges you to compete against faster and more skilled virtual drivers, simulating a more realistic race environment.
  4. Transition to Multiplayer Racing: When you’re consistently driving within 0.5 seconds of your best lap time and have completed multiple incident-free races against high-difficulty AI, it’s time to take on human competition. Join private or public multiplayer lobbies to test your skills against real-world opponents. There are some seriously fast simulator drivers all over the world so go in eyes wide open! Remember, your goal is to work on your skills for the real world, not to be a simulator racing champion.

Simulators are more than just games—they’re training tools. To get the most out of your time:

  1. Start Slow: Begin with easier tracks and lower powered/lighter cars to focus on fundamentals like braking and cornering.
  2. Learn the Racing Line: Follow track guides and in-game tutorials to understand the ideal line.
  3. Focus on Consistency: Aim for smooth, repeatable laps before pushing for speed.
  4. Experiment with Settings: Adjust car setups and difficulty levels as you improve.
  5. Use Ghosts and Replays: Analyze your laps and compare them to faster drivers to identify areas for improvement.

From Virtual to Reality: Bridging the Gap

While simulators provide invaluable practice, transitioning to real-world driving requires adapting to physical forces and sensory feedback – it’s real! But the habits you develop on a simulator—like the foundational driver inputs, spatial awareness, and car control —make this transition significantly easier.

Many professional drivers, including F1 and endurance racing, credit simulators as a vital part of their training regimen. Even for am’s, the benefits are clear: more confidence, better instincts, and a deeper understanding of vehicle dynamics for when you hit the track in real life.


Your Next Steps

Whether you’re using a simulator to prepare for your first track day or simply want to enjoy the thrill of driving from home, this is a fantastic way to develop your skills. In future posts, we’ll dive deeper into advanced simulator setups, track-specific tips, and how to take your virtual driving to the next level.

Ready to start? Grab your wheel, fire up Gran Turismo 7 or Forza Motorsport, and begin your journey toward becoming a confident and skilled driver—one lap at a time.

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v1.2 of the Assetto Corsa Spec E46 is now available

Thanks to everyone for the support on the SE46 car for Assetto Corsa.  We have an updated build to share!

Here’s what is new:

  • Front and rear anti-roll bars are now adjustable.
  • The car now comes with additional base factory colors for the car.  The sponsored race car livery is still the same and the default but now you have new options.
  • The .zip file now contains a new folder called “Templates”.  This folder contains a Photoshop file (.psd) that you can use to create your own livery.
  • The passenger side cage tube now goes in the proper location (aesthetic change only).
  • Wheels now have motion blur.
  • Enhanced levels of details and interior is now optimized for low resolution graphics cards/monitors
  • The rear-view mirror has been adjusted down so it is more easily viewable when not in VR mode.
  • The description, power figures and graphs have been updated.
  • Dyno graphs are based off a real-world chassis dyno and 15% added to torque and whp for drive-train losses.

How to get the update:

For those who already purchased the car, an email has been sent (including initial contributors to the build) where they can access it and all new purchasers will get the new build in the download link.  Click here to check out and buy the car!

How to install the update:

  1. Download the update
  2. Make sure Assetto Corsa is not running.
  3. Right click the .zip folder and select “Extract All” – do not just double click into the folder.
  4. Find the “contents” folder and copy that folder
  5. Go to this path: C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\content\cars
  6. If you already have the previous version, delete the previous version of the car, which should be a folder called “bmw_m3_e46”.  If not, skip this step and go to step 7.
  7. Go up to levels in that director to: C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\
  8. Paste the “contents” folder you copied above
  9. Close the file explorer window
  10. That’s it!

Over the next couple months, via our friends at Track Attack, we will have the capability to log telemetry data from Assetto Corsa and compare it with the real world data we already have from several tracks.  We’ll use this data to further fine-tune the physics model.

As always, let us know what you think and thanks again for the support!

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Building a Sim: I Want to Drive Better in Real Life!

With the explosive growth of simulator driving for not just training but actual competition, big time dollars and rewards attached, we get more and more questions about how to get started building a simulator setup and specifically, what to get.

Still wondering if simulator driving is really that worth it?  Check out this podcast from Speed Secrets and this video about William Byron – now a driver for Hendricks Motorsports, who didn’t grow up driving karts or cars but rather, simulators.

This can be a complicated space because there are a lot of options.  In this second post, let’s go down one specific path base on what we think is the most important question.

Why do you want a simulator setup?  I want to use simulators to accelerate my driving or car in the real world.

eSports is exploding in popularity with games like Madden, Fortnite and Halo being at the center global gaming tournaments.  Gamers from around the world train and compete against world-class gamers at in-person and virtual tournaments all over the world and for real money.

This is not a spoof! That is a real picture of thousands of people watching gamers compete on-stage!

There are even several universities who have athletic scholarships for student-gamers.  Racing competitions in eSports is no exception – competing and winning real money for simulator driving is real and it’s here.

This post is focused primarily for those who want currently or are planning to drive in the real-world and want to use simulators to accelerate their development.  Getting to the track in the real-life to get quality seat time, driver coaching, and car development is not cheap.  Simulators are an excellent path to do all of those things more often, at a lower cost and increasingly with direct correlation to what happens in the real world.

Recommendation: Go with a PC-based simulator like iRacing, Assetto Corsa (PC edition), Assetto Corsa Competizione or RFactor 2.  Yes, Gran Turismo and Forza have had tournaments where the winners compete in real life for chances to be race car drivers as a profession but those are the exceptions.

It’s time to get serious with triple monitors and the very best components you can buy.

Things to get:

There is no way to get around it – this will be more expensive because you are trying to replicate real life, of which a lot of what happens in real life is about how the car and track sound and feel of your inputs.

  • A quality PC that can keep up with the display you want. The main thing here is a decent processor and ram but the beefiest graphics card you can get and the bar at this level is a little higher than at the ‘simulator only’ level.  Here are a couple options:
    • A PC desktop with a decent i7 processor, 16GB+ of RAM and a 6GB Nvidia GeForce GTX1070 or equivalent from AMD. Get the absolute best graphics card you can get – it will be worth it.
  • iRacing, Assetto Corsa, Assetto Corsa Competizione, RFactor 2 or Project Cars 2.
    • Yes, there are a ton more simulators out there, but these are the heavy hitters.
  • The best peripherals you can buy because you want motorsports grade hardware:
  • Display that will give you the best field of view (FOV) you can afford. Here are my preferences, in order:
    • 24”+ triple screens – I personally have an older version of this model but it doesn’t have pre-drilled holes for monitor stands, which sucks.
    • 27”+ curved screen
    • Virtual reality headset (e.g. Oculus Rift or HTC Vive Pro)
    • 40”+ single monitor/TV: this is not really an option. If you want to really focus on improving your real-world driving, you need an immersive experience.
  • Sim rig with a seat
    • A sim rig/cockpit is no longer optional. You need the seating position, field of view and access to the driver controls to be as close to real-life as possible and you can only really do that with a proper and sturdy sim rig.  Here are a few options:
  • Motion platform
    • Yes, it’s now close to a requirement. Driving in race cars on tracks is a rough experience where you’re getting tossed around as you go over bumps and curbs.  The feeling of the car pitching forward when you hammer the brakes, the car getting upset as you take too much curb or the backend coming loose when you carry too much speed into a corner or get on throttle too quickly – you need to feel that.  All of those things in real life tell you what’s going on and they remind you of the mortal consequences of having more bravery than talent.
    • Want everything integrated and ready to rock?  There several companies who sell fully built and ready to rock motion simulators.  Here are a few:

Gama’s Motion Simulator

Pros:

  • There are few other things that will accelerate your driver development than quality motion simulator seat time.
  • The quality of your experience is completely dependent on the components you put into your PC and peripherals. If you want better graphics, get a better graphics card.  Want better FOV, change your display setup.  Want an even more immersive motion experience with real-time data streaming and coaching?  You can do that too!
  • The force feedback and vibration capabilities of the steering hubs and transducers on the market are amazing. You can buy components and configure then so that you feel everything on your feet, butt, abs, legs and hands as you do in real life.     You will have a generally authentic steering input and feedback experience.
  • There is a growing number of retail locations where you can rent seat time on very high-end simulators and get coaching from top-level coaches.

Cons:

  • No longer “welcome”, you are right in the middle of the slippery slope! It is now the cost of a small car to get a decent motion simulator up and running.  It starts in the $5-10k range and goes into the $50-75k range.  There are simulators well above those ranges but those are reserved for commercial applications.
  • Driving consistently well in a simulator is hard and even more difficult with motion. Most people are lucky to end their first 30 minutes in a simulator simply not crashing or losing control.  Stick with it!
  • Pretty much everything is more complicated to setup. There is almost no plug and play experience for any component.  You need to connect them, install drivers and configure/calibrate.
  • The physics and tire model are better than the console world but vary across simulator platforms.
  • There is even more you can buy, which can be good – for example, buttkickers are sound based vibration devices that give even more feedback to the seat, pedals and generally corners of the car.

Example setups: I’ve only built one motion rig and would be considered “entry level” for a quality motion experience.

  • Example 1: Entry level, motion with a rig: Everything here is exactly what I have on my current motion sim but my graphics card cost a bit more a year ago than they do today.
    • Total Cost: $8,741.39 (doesn’t include taxes or shipping)
      • Custom built desktop gaming PC w/Nvidia GTX1080Ti: $1,200
      • iRacing subscription: $80/year
      • SimXperience Accuforce Hub and steering wheel w/button box: $1,299.00
      • Fanatec SQ Shifter: $199.50
      • Derek Spears Design (DSD) pedals: $895.00
      • OMP Racing seat: $799.00
      • Logitech 5.1 Speaker system: $49.95
      • Next Level Racing Ultimate Cockpit: $800.00
      • Next Level Racing V2 Motion Platform: $2,999.00
      • 3x AOC 24” gaming monitors: $139.98 x 3 = $419.94

If I knew then what I know now, what would I do differently?

The Next Level Racing cockpit is pretty good, and I don’t entirely regret my purchase decision, especially because their motion platform integrates seamlessly BUT if I were building another rig (which I will in the next 6 months or so), I would try the DOF motion cockpit because I don’t love the following about the Next Level Racing cockpit:

  1. The flex in the chassis, especially under heavy braking. First, it flexes and since it wasn’t designed to flex in the first place, the amount of flex is variable.  This isn’t great when you are trying to hit your marks lap after lap or making minor adjustments to brake application to shave off tenths of seconds.
  2. Lack of adjust ability. Having the seating position, steering wheel, shifter and pedals in the perfect position for your body is critical to driving fast and driving consistent.  Any unnecessary mental energy used to figure out where things are or having to adjust to not having the controls in natural/intuitive positions will make you go slower.  The NLR rig is essentially fixed in place after you set things up and for me personally, we had to add a wood block to the pedal box so that my heels could stay planted and reach properly.  The manual shifter position is okay, but I really wish I could move it another inch or two closer to me.  Lastly, with the motion set, the slider doesn’t work.

You listed the Fanatec pedals but you have some other fancy looking pedals.  What gives?

Yes, when the Thrustmaster wheel hub failed after about a year of use, I upgraded to the Fanatec hub but I wanted as close to the real-world race car pedal feel as possible.  On this rig I currently have the Derek Spears Designs pedals which are amazing and use real Wilwood racing pedal box components.  You don’t need these if you are only simulator racing.  I also have two other rigs with the Fanatec V2.5 Clubsport pedals, both the floor mounted and the hanging configurations.  They are solid and when you add the bump stops for the brake pedal, they are close to the DSD pedals but still substantially lower cost.

 

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Day 15 – I can’t believe this is happening

This is the last day of iRacing before the big race weekend at Portland International Raceways.  The goal today was the same – another 20+ lap sessions, with no accidents, pushing for consistent, fast but not personal best laps.  Just get into a rhythm and pound out lap, after lap, after lap – all near the limit (or at least mine).

The session started off normal, with low-1:20 lap times steadily falling and then suddenly, lap 6 – BOOM! 1:19.410 – new personal best.  

I smell blood in the water…

That lap was good but there were some small mistakes, I can do better.  So I put my head down and starting pounding away trying to repeat it and make improvements.  over the next 10 or so laps, I got close several times and even spinning at one point, but keeping it out of the wall.

I checked up, let the tires cool down, as I would in real life and went back at it.

More mid-1:19’s and suddenly… 1:19.351 – another half tenth shaved off.  But I wanted more, especially with a low fuel load, I knew I could do it.  So I pushed on but ultimately, I dropped a tire on the exit of the chicane and ended up with a 1:19.398.

Oh so close!!!

What happened?

I found that if I can slow down, just a tiny bit more, in the entrance of the ‘esses’ and turn 7 and the chicane, I was able to get the car turned faster and back on throttle and full throttle, sooner. Same lesson from before, just applying it better and better.

Check out the throttle traces of the graph below.

Slow down earlier, get the car turned and then get back on throttle.

Now seeing as that new personal best was done at the end of the session, with yes lower fuel – it was also well past the peak performance of the tires. Something I started thinking about today, as I have been preparing for the Portland race this weekend, is that I’ve noticed that many times, in a real world race, my fastest lap of the race comes in around lap 2-4.

This is when the tires, brakes and everything are at their prime conditions. I wonder what could happen if we did a low fuel run, with just 5 or so laps and fresh tires? I am thinking that the lap times would come down significantly!

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Day 14 – A day late but faster

I’m not going to lie – I had a long night of work on Sunday night and didn’t go to bed until just past 1am PST.  So when the alarm went off at 5:30am, I could barely move enough to shut the alarm down.  So I did not race at all on Monday, instead deciding to be as fresh as I could for the next morning.

And it was a good trade off – I was not only able to put together another 19 lap session with no crashes but I got a new personal best, mid-way through the session for a 1:19.476 – almost .3 faster than before.

What happened?

I’ve heard the following in various places and this is exactly what happened – whoever gets on full throttle first, without lifting, wins.  I slowed down just a touch more for Turn 7, was able to get and stay on full throttle, just a fraction of a second sooner.  This resulted in a massive drop in lap time as we approached the back-straight chicane and then, in this section, I worked on having a wider entry into the chicane, clipping both FIA rumble strips and getting on throttle as soon as I could.

All together, these two changes resulted in that almost .3 second improvement in fastest lap time!

Checkout the delta chart (second graph from the top) – you’ll see the dramatic decrease in turns 7 – 12.

Faster Average Lap Times and Average Fast Lap Times

More and more, this is what I am most excited about. Not just being able to put together one flying lap, but being able to be faster, consistently. My average lap times improved by almost .1 seconds and my average fast lap times improved by just over .2 seconds! Boom!

Specifically, it’s similar reasons as to how I improved my ultimate fastest lap – better runs into the back straight, the chicane but also, being able to get the car turned, faster and carry more speed through the ‘esses’.

Checkout the delta graph, throttle and brake pressure graphs. Getting on and staying on full throttle first, wins!

Preparing for the real world

I’m really jacked about the progress, especially with a big race coming this next weekend at Portland International Raceways, with the Chicane. This track, because we run it twice and has been one of my weaker tracks, is exactly why I chose to train with Road Atlanta as the test track. Getting on throttle, quick, for long straight aways and a chicane are what I need to improve on for this track and excited to see how this translates to on-track results.

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Day 13 – Less than 20% Unclean!

I have been working on driving more consistent… err… consistently, with some success but today, it finally all clicked and came together like never before.

I woke up, tired as usual, did my stretching, some cross-crawls (thanks Ross Bentley and Speed Secrets!) and lazy eight’s, just like I do in the real world and got on my way.  And for the first time ever, 20+ laps of just about all clean driving.  I did drop some tires and got a little sideways but I forced myself to try to save the car, slow down and collect myself, just like in the real world.  And it worked!

20+ laps of mostly clean running!

The best part? Nestled in there are five sub-1:20 lap times and I didn’t feel like I was risking life and limb to make them happen!

On average, what changed?

It was really just one segment – segment 7, which includes turns 10a, 10b, 11 and 12.  The chicane in the back straight away and all the way to start/finish.  With my next real-world race being at Portland International Raceways, this time being run with the ‘Festival Chicane’ in the annual Chicane Challenge event, getting a great run out of the chicane has been top of mind for me.

I made it my goal today to get the best dang run out of the chicane, on power and going to full throttle, without having to lift, the top priority and I think it’s worked! Here are a couple of proof points:

1. Braking earlier, settling the car, aiming towards the backside of the 10ab apex and getting on throttle faster.

The changes are small but they are making a difference.

2. No new personal best but the average fast lap, is faster!

Just barely but the trend holds true even for the fastest laps – I am braking slightly earlier, softer and getting on throttle sooner.

Comparison of yesterday’s and today’s average fastest lap. Small but there are differences in the right direction.

Today was one of the most satisfying days – not only was I able to get into a groove, I worked up a serious sweat and did not have a single incident – how it should be in the real world. I’m excited to keep this going and build momentum of sessions where I get serious laps in and while finding little nuggets of speed here and there.

When I first started a couple weeks ago, I would not have even dreamt of low 1:19 lap times. Now I believe they are not only possible but even 1:18’s are possible in the next 30 days!

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Day 11 – Warmer = Slower

Today was interesting.  I woke up pretty jacked about making a big jump in a personal best lap time and my goal was just to continue being able to get low 1:20 and high 1:19 lap times, with this new found level of performance. At first, everything started as normal, with pretty easily being able to get into the 1:21’s but then something strange happened.  I could not get under 1:20.368.  In fact, once I got that lap time, I could barely even get close to that lap time.

Frustrated but not deterred, I came off the track and checked the setup.  All looked good and I went back out to run a stint until I ran out of gas.  18 laps later and mostly 1:21 lap times, I had an off and decided to call it a day.

What the crap is going on?

I immediately went into the Virtual Racing School console to see what was going on?  What was I doing that caused me to completely lose the progress I had been making the past several days?  Was it a learning too much, too fast, hangover?  Was I feeling under the weather?

The weather! It took me several minutes but I eventually noticed this below.  I had been using iRacing with the default ‘dynamic weather’ setting, in the ‘on’ position.  I don’t know exactly how they decided to set the weather and track state but this session ended up being a warmer session, with the track temperature being 8 degrees warmer.

How did it get warmer in the virtual world?!?!

The impact of weather conditions on performance

For most cars and tire compounds, especially high performance or racing tires, we know it can be too cold.  Too cold not only does not let the tires come up to temperature and become that nice, somewhat sticky and tar-like look and feel but it can also make the tire rubber compound brittle.  e.g. negative traction.

But it apparently can also be too hot or maybe not too hot yet, but at least there is an inverse relationship at some point, between heat and grip.  Similar to like when you accidentally light up the tires or lock them up, the tires get over-heated and need some time to cool down before the expected grip returns, apparently, higher ambient air temps and track temps, have an impact on tire grip and I imagine, engine performance and thus, power output.  Engines want cool, dense air.

So, what happened specifically?

Truth be told, I am not sure exactly yet.  I don’t know how to quantify grip potential (yet) or power output (yet) in general or based on changes in track temp or ambient temp but, it appears the following happened:

The impact of a ~10 degree temperature increase.

  1. I lost time across the whole track, except 1 section (section 3).
  2. I lost .3 seconds in section 3, which is primarily the end of the esses and turn 6.  I braked earlier, softer but wasn’t able to get back on throttle sooner. In fact, I was only able to get back on throttle later.

And this was on my best lap of the session.  When I looked at a more typical lap of the session, a 1:20.652, the losses were even more pronounced.

My hypothesis is that even a 10 degree change in weather, at some point near the high end of the operating temperature of tires and engines, has an impact.  I imagine that going from 50 degrees and dry to 60 degrees and dry has an impact but maybe not as big as going from 70 degrees to 80 degrees and dry.

Moving forward: Hold variables constant

Since I am focused on improving my driving as best as possible, I’m going to do something that is complete crap in the real world – I am going to establish and hold the same weather and track conditions from now on.  Right now, I am trying to improve as best as I can as a driver, make changes in myself or the setup and be able to trace a connection between those changes and my performance.  I’ve already tried to hold as many other variables constant by driving the same track, the same car and now, essentially the same setup.  This will not be any different – I don’t want to go faster by accident because the air temp is cooler.

After this 30 days is over and possibly before hand, I’m going to turn that random selection back on so it forces me to adapt to changing conditions but for now, its time to play superhero and control the weather.

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Day 10 – Powering through!

Yesterday and this past weekend, was a real-life race weekend and while it was all in all, a very successful weekend, it was exhausting!  So exhausting that last night (Sunday), I was sound asleep by 9pm and it when the alarm went off at 5am this morning, I just couldn’t do it.

So my racing for the day didn’t happen until this evening, after a full day of work, being a dad and before dinner.  Being so tired and having to jump immediately back into my day job, I didn’t even have time to think about what my goal should be today.  So I just decided to start driving and see if and what would translate from my weekend of real world diving.

Holy crap – new personal best!

It was kind of weird, I just started driving and almost automatically, everything felt “normal”.  It is not like I feel overwhelmed with the speed of the Mercedes AMG GT3 car, even though I’ve never driven anything like that type of car in real life but with how hard we drive the PRo3 cars and how physically demanding Pacific Raceways is, driving the AMG GT3 felt not as stressful.

The first few laps felt good and I was immediately able to get into the mid-1:20.xxx lap times but then, boom – 1:19.908!  I was so startled that I was able to find this pace so quickly that I dropped a tire on the exit of turn 12, so it technically didn’t count.  On the following lap, I was able to brake lighter and carry so much more speed into turn 1, that I found myself .25x seconds faster than my personal lap and… I crapped my pants and proceeded to spin out as I carried too much speed into Turn 3.

New personal best and no clue why or how this happened!

Calm down, breathe and carry on

As I mentioned yesterday, my main focus of the weekend was to brake earlier, lighter and have reduce my brake to throttle transition times to as short as possible.  Trail brake and… throttle!  No wasted time!  So, that’s what I think carried forward and I think, just having more seat time with a high volume of information coming at my at a fast rate.

So I had crashed, exited the car, took a few steps to calm down and said “ok, just relax – I can clearly do a sub 1:20.000 lap time but just focus on the basics.”

It took me a few false starts where I was too excited and got in trouble but finally, I was able to put together a stint of 7, mostly clean laps where the low 1:20’s and then… two, clean, 1:19.xxx laps came through.  YES!!!!!!  1:19.758 – new personal best!!!!!!

New Personal Best Lap Time!

How did this happen?  The shoes?

I have to admit – before this session, during and after, I did not look at data at all.  Whatever caused this to happen was some cumulative effect of my training over the past 10 days and the intense and positive, real-world experience in racing I had the last few days.  My best guess is the cumulative effect of repetition and “chunking” learning experiences – I’ve not only had racing on my mind each day for the past 10 days in terms of actually doing, but I’ve  been thinking about it regularly throughout the day, the things I am working on and learning but I’ve also forced myself to think about my experiences and learning differently because of these articles and the videos I’ve recorded.

Maybe it was because I went all full immersion by wearing racing shoes?

Someone smart once said that a way to truly ensure you understand something is to not just practice that thing but to teach it to other people.  That process of explaining it to others, with a variety of analogies or other techniques, forces a deeper level of understanding and I think that has been helping.

I’m planning to write a blog post just on the skill of learning, based on these experiences and some books I’ve been reading about learning but if that isn’t what caused the improvement, maybe it was the shoes?

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Day 6 – Two more steps forward!

Yesterday, I had made progress on the ultimate lap fastest lap time but it wasn’t very satisfied with how I went about it.  Very little consistency and that was the goal of the whole morning!  So today, I came in with a calm and relaxed approach – focus on consistency.  It’s okay to give up some speed and time in the areas I was struggling on the most (turns 2, 3 and 5), as long as I can consistently be in the high 1:20 to low 1:21 range.

Keys to success: visualize your goal, see it, feel it and it will happen

What do you know, it happened!  It wasn’t automatic as in the first stint, I did go off and just barely touched a wall (for real, I promise!) so I reset the session.  Turns 2 and 3 were absolutely killing me.

That is not exactly what consistency looks like. 🙁

That second session though ended up being 19 laps of clean laps, several with one wheel dropping, usually on the exit of 5 and even saving some super sideways action but, the great thing is that I didn’t make any contact and I felt like these were laps that would have been deemed clean in the real world.

Next best thing: A new personal best – 1:20.110!

So what happened? I’m not exactly sure but the way I am thinking about it is that by trying to establish a new normal, the things that happen at mid and high 1:20 lap times weren’t as startling and thus, I had the mental capacity to see opportunities for gains.  Here are a couple:

  • Turn 1: Towards the end of the stint, I knew I was going to run low on fuel which would end the session but the last 4 – 5 laps, I found significant amounts of time entering turn 1 with just the lightest of brake application, getting the car turned to the apex and getting back on throttle.  At it’s best, this was giving me a .3xx second advantage over my personal best.
  • Turn 10a and 10b – the chicane: I also found, though not able to consistently do this, just the right amount of braking needed to not over-slow and still hit the rumble strips on the apex of 10a and the right timing of lifting and turning to get to the rumble strips (often referred to as FIA curbing) for 10b.  This would allow me to be on throttle right before or on the apex and full throttle the rest of the way.

In the end, those last few laps I had several predicted lap times in the 1:19.xxx range but just couldn’t put it together.

Now we’re talking! Well, except for the still getting sideways into turn 2!

I’m incredibly happy about this because again, I want my virtual racing driving to translate well into my real world driving.  So if I can’t put down more than 10 laps without crashing, that doesn’t bode well for the real world.  The next few days I will be at Pacific Raceways, in Kent, WA – just outside of Seattle.  With a Test and Tune on Friday, practice, qualifying and a 1 hour endurance race on Saturday and final qualifying and the main race for the PRO3 championship on Sunday.

The weather looks awesome and looking forward to seeing how the training so far translates to the real world.

Loading up Thursday night for a weekend of racing at Pacific Raceways!

 

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Day 5 – 30 Days of Racing

Two One Step forward

So yesterday, I made some massive improvements but after taking a break to calm down and try to establish a ‘new normal’ of high 1:20.xxx and low 1:21.xxx lap times, I failed miserably.  I wasn’t able to keep the car balanced through a couple key corners, as I found more speed.  So my goal today was to not care about going faster but just be able to easily produce lap times in that range.

The first stint, I just loaded up the car and went on my way and in the third lap, was able to hit a 1:21.040 and then a 1:21.077 and then a 1:20.877… SWEET!  I’m doing this!  I forget exactly what threw me off but I got a little sideways and touched a wall so I decided to get out, take a deep breath, visualize and go at it again.  When I exited, I checked the data quickly on Virtual Racing School and I realized I hadn’t loaded the same setup as the rabbit I’m chasing, which is a good amount different AND I was running on 30 gallons of fuel to start.

Lap times for the first stint – not bad!

I loaded the right setup and went off… no, literally.  I went off on the out-laps.  Twice and had to restart.  It didn’t bother me much at the time or at least I didn’t let it get to me but I really don’t like doing that.  The goal is to simulate the real world conditions as much as possible and if this were the real world, there’d be a lot of repairs to do and I’d be drowning in debt to pay for them.

Final stint – let’s put get a good run in!

With my hour winding down, I went for one last stint.  Breath, look ahead, visualize balance and go for it!  I strapped in and on lap 1: 1:20.310 – new personal best!  

Stay calm, remember – the goal is not to go faster but rather be able to knock out 1:20.xxx lap times like it’s nothing.

  • Lap 1: 1:20.310
  • Lap 2: 1:20.964 – dirty lap but barely
  • Lap 3: 1:20.680 – another dirty lap but barely again
  • Lap 4: 1:20.170 – dang it!  Barely dropped a tire somewhere but would be fine in the real world.
  • Lap 5: Crash… hard.

That will not buff out.

I had to call it quits here because the hour was up and my wife and son were running around asking me to be a dad, of which I love!  🙂

Lesson learned: I know what it feels like to do these lap times, just need to hard-code them into my mind and body

We’re starting to get into some pretty decent and competitive lap times and at the traction limit more and more.  This is near the territory of what separates the Pro’s versus the Joe’s who play a Pro on the weekends. I need to realize that it will take time and backing off a little to be more consistent.  Yes, I improved my personal best but it doesn’t mean as much if I can’t consistently get near that or drive more than 5 laps without crashing.  That’s not even good enough for a 20 minute sprint race.

The goal remains the same for tomorrow, don’t worry about going faster, just be able to drive consistently and stay out of the walls.